Pompeii - A New Theory

When I first visited Pompeii in 1996, the prevailing theory was that the population died due to suffocation by falling ash. However, a study published only a few years ago gave compelling proof that the town’s inhabitants died when a surge of hot gas over 475 degrees F passed over the town--causing near instant death. Recent excavations found masses of bodies at what was once the sea port--apparently the many waiting at the port to be evacuated by sea.

After death, the bodies of the inhabitants were immediately covered in thick ash. Over the eons, the bodies disintegrated, but leaving voids in the ash. Archaeologists exploring the site came upon the voids and filled them with liquid plaster, which dried and was excavated. The impressions showed with ghastly detail the positions and even facial grimaces of the some of those inhabitants lost to the disaster--even a dog trying to escape from the rope that tied it down and prevented its escape.

Nearly 2000 years later, the town provides the world an amazingly well-preserved view of Roman art, architecture and culture. However, that gift to us was given with a heavy price by those many souls who lost their lives so horrifically.

Pompeii

For the weekend, we headed toward the Gulf of Naples. Along the way, we stopped for lunch (some quite good calzone) in modern Pompei, which sits adjacent to (and at places on top of) the archaeological site of ancient Pompeii (note different spelling).

Pompeii, along with other towns and villas in the surrounding area, was destroyed and buried under 10 to 20 feet of ash from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in the year 79 AD. At the time of its destruction, it had a population of approximately 11,000 people, with a complex water system, amphitheater and an important sea port. The eruption killed most the city's inhabitants and buried it under tons of ash. The town laid buried and lost until 1599 AD. Excavations began in 1748 when a Spanish engineer--employed to dig a sewer for a nearby munitions factory--unearthed the impressively preserved Roman town. It has been a tourist destination ever since.

Colosseum of Pompeii

Remains of interior of Roman residence

Detail of Mosaic in Pompeii residence

Serving vessels (for wine) in Roman bar 

Interior of Roman bar

Street in Pompeii in residential quarter

Detail of mosaic floor

View down street in Pompeii

Courtyard in Pompeii

Courtyard in Pompeii

Detail of Mosaic

Amphitheater

Statute in Amphitheater

Villa della Santa Croce

We left Piana di Monte Verna early in the morning for the short drive up into the mountains to look for the small town of Villa Santa Croce (Village of the Holy Cross). The small town dates back to the 10th century, starting as a settlement of shepherds near the Benedictine Abbey, which build atop nearly Mount Holy Cross. The abby lasted into the 18th century, but later fell into ruins. At some time later, the Church of St. Nicholas of Bari was establish in the town and remains to this day.

Villa Santa Croce has only 180 families, virtually all of them belonging to the same family. From what we saw, it seemed that most residents were of retirement age. There were no cafes or shops. In fact, several people, wondering why two strangers were wanting around the town, asked us what we were doing there. We explained that we were American’s from the that family. Upon hearing that, the suspicious glances turned to welcoming smiles and short, bit nice conversations.

By good timing, we were in town when Giuseppe, the fruit vendor, pulled into town. During the week, Giuseppe drives his flatbed truck loaded with fresh fruit up into down. As he parks in the tiny central plaza, he declares his arrival in a sing-songy announcement over the loudspeaker in the truck. Moments later, we were surrounded by ladies from the town. I saw one digging into a crate of the most interesting peppers--red, heart-shaped and about the size of a golf ball. I picked up a handful to try later. (They were an interesting pepper, tasting sweet like a red bell pepper, with the sweetness giving way to sharp spiciness of a jalapeño.)

As we left town for a couple days on the coast, I thought about my Great-grandmother Nellie (Antoinetta). I remember visiting her with my grandmother as a very young boy--probably only 6 or 7 years old. She was in her 90’s at the time. Riding down the steep, winding road leading down from the town, I thought about her as a young woman, possibly traveling that same road on the way to the port of Naples. I wondered what it must have been like to leave those isolated valleys and hills--the same streets and churches we saw in Villa Santa Croce and Piana di Monte Verna--for the long, uncertain voyage by ocean steamer to New York and a new life.

Piana di Monte Verna

About an hour’s drive into Campania (Caserta province), we arrived in the small town of Piana di Monte Verna in the afternoon. Before 1996, the town was called Piana di Caiazzo, which was the city listed in the immigration documents of our grandfather’s family.

We arrived and found a hotel above a restaurant--being able to negotiate a price for the night that included an excellent dinner of fried zucchini flowers, greens, and squash gnocchi in a red sauce (all local and seasonal ingredients).

We had a little time to walk around the town, and enjoy an amazing sun set over the surrounding hills. There is a very nice church, which surely would have been familiar to our family who left this town for opportunities in far-flung Pennsylvania. The town is situated in picturesque valley, but not in an of itself noteworthy. My understanding is that this town suffered heavy damage in WWII and was re-built in the ‘50s.

Interestingly, we mentioned to several people that we we in town because it was the town of our grandfather’s family. However, when we mentioned the family name, they replied--”there are many from the that family here, but that family really is from Villa Santa Croce in the mountains”. We found the town on the map and decided to visit in the morning.

Castro dei Volsci

About a 2-hour drive south of Rome is the old town of Castro dei Volsci. For centuries, this was a border town at the southern extreme of the Papal States along the border of the Kingdom of Naples. As a consequence, at the time, it had both a military and commercial significance. Today, the King of Naples is long gone as is his kingdom, the core of which is now the Italian province of Campania.

Castro dei Volsci is also the town of my cousin’s grandfather, who lived there as a boy and started school. From the outskirts, the town looks imposing, perched on the top of a mountain. We drove up the narrow winding roads and eventually made it to the edge of town. At the old city walls, we parked the car, skeptical as to whether it was possible to drive though such a narrow gate. Within the walls, we met some wonderful people and were treated to beautiful sights of the town and the surrounding countryside.

Leaving Rome ... in a Fiat Panda

From Assisi, we returned to Rome to pick up a car to continue our travels south. More specifically, a Fiat Panda, which is slightly larger than a golf cart and had just enough room for two passengers with luggage. However, for the ride up, down and through narrow, medieval streets and precarious cliff-side highways, it was the perfect size. Plus, it ran a diesel, which costs less than gasoline in Italy. After stocking up on all of the insurance available to us, we left the rental agency at Rome Fiumicino Airport and headed south into Lazio.

http://www.fiat.it/panda

Assisi

Of all the places I have visited in Europe, the town of Assisi is one of my favorites. When I first visited in late August 1996, I arrived at the train station outside of town. The center of town is about a mile’s walk. My visit coincided with the surrounding fields of sunflowers being in full bloom. With the medieval city of Assisi perched in the hills above, the walk through those golden sunflower fields to the city remains one of the most beautiful sights in my memory.

The train ride from Rome to Assisi is a little over 90 minutes, so I could not resist the temptation to take a short detour north. Assisi fits into a picturesque corner of the region of Umbria, and, upon seeing the town and surrounding hills, It is no surprise that Assisi is the home of three significant saints--Sts. Rufino, Francis, and Claire. Today, many visitors come to Assisi to enjoy the meticulously preserved and maintained town. Even more come as a site of religious pilgrimage.

I had hoped to hike from Assist to the nearby town of Spello (another medieval Umbrian hill town), but due to a later arrival than originally planned, I’ll have to save that idea for another trip. During our stay in Assisi, we visited the 13th San Rufino Cathedral, constructed in the Umbrian Romanesque style (my absolute favorite architecture). Both St. Francis and St. Claire were baptized in the cathedral, and St. Francis was known to spend much time in prayer at the cathedral, and preached there frequently. St. Claire is said to have been inspired to her own religious life upon hearing a sermon by St. Francis at the same cathedral.

Assisi later constructed great the churches dedicated to St. Francis and St. Claire, which we also visited. The Basilica of St. Francis is somewhat architecturally unique in that it is a church built over a church. The design was apparently influenced by a dispute between the Franciscan order, which prefers simple, understated design, with the Benedictines, who preferred a more grand, ornate structure to honor the great saint. In the end, the Franciscans built a sanctuary on the lower level in the simple Romanesque style, providing access to the crypt holding the remains of St. Francis. Above, the Benedictines built a larger, more ornate sanctuary “Upper Church” in the then-new-fangled Gothic style. In 1997, a strong earthquake struck the region, destroying much of the original frescoes that originally adorned the Upper Church. The Lower Church suffered less damage and was, consequentially, restored more completely in the follow years. The odd result today is that the Lower Church--intended to express a much simpler design and decor--has--at least in my view--the greater aesthetic quality.