Positano

It may be impossible to point a camera in Positano and not take a spectacular photo. Case in point...

Amalfi

While Positano may be the posher of the sister cities on the Amalfi Coast, the village from which the coast derives its name is no ugly duckling. It features a central cathedral dating back to the 9th century in an Arab-Norman Romanesque architectural style, entire neighborhoods dangling above the town on the ancient terraces built into the sides of the sheer rock, and a spectacular valley that produces the finest lemons ever squeezed into a bottle of limoncello.

Driving the Amalfi Coast--What a ride!

Sorrento lies on the northern gateway to the storied Amalfi Coast. Along the twists and turns of the provincial highway lie the the scenic villages of Positano and Amalfi. The roads were cut many years ago into the sides of share cliffs. In many ways, the road winding along this section is an engineering marvel. But either by traveling by bus or private car, the narrow roads, hairpin turns, and 50 meter drop offs are terrifying if you ask me (or exhilarating, if you ask my Cousin Francis, who expertly navigated the entire route, and can proudly tout that has an accomplishment.)

If you ever get the chance, swing by Naples for a pizza

If you really want to shock your senses, take the boat ride from the picturesque and relaxed Isle of Capri directly to the Port of Naples. Our motivation for doing that--to get a pizza.

Naples can be heralded for many things... the architectural treasures of the former capital city of the Kingdom of Naples, its modern importance as the South's transportation hub (by sea, by rail and by road) and the fantastic local cuisine. If you have to see the town in 3 hours or less (as was our case), one of the more amazing places to visit is the central Piazza Garibaldi.

For those arriving by train, Piazza Garibaldi is usually the first vantage of Naples. That was the case for me when I passed through 18 years before. At that time, the vast plaza was fully open to traffic and was amazing. Tightly packed, aggressively driven cars seemed to race around the plaza. Not a single car was dent free. I remember the traffic being like one would expect to find today in the center of Mumbai.

In the present day, Piazza Garibaldi is in the midst of a ultra-modernizing overhaul. Today, the traffic around the plaza was fierce, but much a tamed beast compared to my last visit. Also, in these days, the center of Naples is the home to many immigrants from around the world--but predominantly Sub-Saharan Africa. In some areas of the plaza, there were so many vendors and patrons of street side stalls, that it was not difficult to imagine being in commercial district of Dakar.

During my previous visit, I remember there being an excellent pasticceria (bakery) that prominently marketed its sfogliatelle in the corner of the plaza just across from the train station. (A sfogliatella--if you did not grow up in or with access to a Northeastern Italian-American community--is a classic Neapolitan cheese-filled pastry that looks a lot like seashell.) To my delight, that place--the “Sfogliate Lab” was still in business--and looked exactly as I remembered.

What I don’t recall was the other pasticceria/cafeteria two doors down. Looking sleek and modern--for some reason--I decided to try out the new place--the “Cuori di sfogliatella” (Heart of Sfogliatella). That worked out to be a great decision. Foremostly, I may have enjoyed the best sfogliatella of my life. As an incredible bonus, this place may sport the most incredible coffee list of any cafe. If you want to test that statement, check out this website: http://www.cuoridisfogliatella.it/caffe/

The final reward to the visit was the great advice the barista gave me. I had originally stopped in Naples with the intention of having pizza in the Mergellina neighborhood. Given the lateness of the hour, we did not have time to taxi over from the train station (as I originally planned) instead, I had a good suspicion we would find a great place near Piazza Garibaldi. I asked the barista if he could recommend a place. With quintessential Neapolitan seriousness, he instructed me to walk down the street, and then “not at the first street, not at the second street, but at the third street” there was a great pizzeria on the left. Following those directions, we found Pizzeria Mascolo--right where the barista described it. The pizza was as good as expected--and expectations for pizza should be quite high when visiting Naples.

There is so much more to see in Naples. The next time I come to Italy, I need to make sure to spend more time in this city.

Creative "raw" pizza from Mascolo's Pizzeria in Naples

Sfogliatelle

The (real) Isle of Capri

As far as places to spend a weekend, the Isle of Capri is a pretty good one...

Sorrento: Gateway to the Golf of Naples

For the weekend--at the recommendation of colleague Charles Caltagirone--we stayed in Sorrento at the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. This a very beautiful stretch of coast with renowned cities build nearly cliff-side. Driving the turning, twisting roads along those sheer cliffs is an adventure in an of itself. Luckily for me, Francis is an excellent driver who navigated the narrow, serpentine roads like a pro.

Sorrento is a very nice town in its own rite, with a busy city center perched above its port. The narrow streets are packed with vendors, restaurants and quite a few establishments to enjoy the local delicacies--including limoncello liqueur--Sorrento's most beloved local product.

View of Sorrento's port 

Sorrento's old center commercial district

View of Sorrento along the state highway

Mt. Vesuvius looming across the Gold of Naples